Happy Chinese New Year, everyone!!!
I've basically touched on everything I wanted to cover, by accident, in my previous issue.
But I'll try my best to give it more body using this issue! ^^
So... in this issue, I'll cover things about how to choose the right shades, mainly for foundations and concealers.
As well as other products here and there.
So let's start.
#01 - Cool or Warm??
Alright, this is one of the things which confuses the shit out of people.
If you hold 2 different shades of the same color up and ask someone which is warmer or cooler...
well, some people wouldn't have too much of a problem answering you... but then again... some will.
Basically...
Warmer shades will be brighter, more vivid...
And cooler shades tend to be darker, more subdued.
Yes. There is a warm and a cool shade of yellow, I was shocked too...
haha I've always thought yellow was a happy bright color and HAD to be warm.
But
no. the cooler shade would be what we mostly call "Mustard Yellow". I
just never associated it... well, with yellow for some reason.
Alright loves, but all that junk above ain't going to tell you whether you should pick and NC, NW, C or W shade of foundation.
And frankly, even I'd get confused, time and again.
Well... time to confuse you even more.
In cosmetics... it's the OTHER way around.
Cool shades of foundation are catered for people with more yellow/golden skin tones (warm undertones)
And warm shades of foundations are catered for people with pinky skin tones (cool undertones)
Alright so this is how it goes, skin undertone wise.
Deep yellow to olive (C) - slight yellow (NC) - pinky (NW)
kapiesh?
#02 - Alright... sooo... Am I Cool or Warm???
Good question.
Hard one to answer in words. Next question please.
haha jkjk.
There are a few methods people traditionally use to determine if they have a more pink or more yellow undertone.
They aren't foolproof though... many people get confused over them as well...
a. Take a look at your roots
Well... by roots I mean... your ancestry, by birth or by your actual skin!
Generally... people who are really really fair or sunburn easily (usually Caucasians) have pink undertones.
Whilst people who are get tanned easily or have dark hair (especially Asians) have yellow undertones.
This one is the most... well... old method...
and it's not exactly the best.
Because remember what I said about having cooler and warmer shades of yellow?
Well, when you aren't the palest of pales, and your skin has a slight yellow cast...
it IS possible that for you to have a pinky shade of yellow undertone... so you'd be best off with NW, but then you might mistake your yellow cast to mean you are an NC or a C.
b. Green veins vs Blue veins
Say what?
Another traditional method is to look at your wrist, where your skin is thin and fair enough for the veins to show through.
People claim that... if you see blue veins, you have a cool skin tone and if the veins are green... you have a warm skin tone.
Well...
again... there's a bunch of people complaining that they have BOTH
green and blue veins, so what do the people who stick with this theory
claim?
Well... you lucky buggers are NEUTRAL!
Load of bull crap in my opinion.
c. Colors
Another method that people are telling others about is to see what colors do you look best in.
You have cool undertones if you look better in: Blue, Silver, deep reds... etc
and you have warm undertones if you look better in: orange, golds, bronze... etc
Basically, the theory is... you are what you are and it'll show.
I don't really have much against this method though.
d. Unconventional
Alright, this one ain't much of a method, but still...
For me, I believe that method c, works.
But... as always... it'll fail... on some people.
Nothing works better than the old, put it on and go under a bright light to see.
Basically,
if you think your foundation looks grey, pale or orange, you probably
are using a foundation of the wrong undertone or you went too light or
too dark...
Then again, it's all personal preference. Since my sis
says I'm super pale with my foundation on... but I like it because my
face is at least a dozen shades darker than my neck and chest... so it
matches.
#03 - Color Correctors
well... if you are using an NC foundation, that doesn't mean ya gotta have an NC concealer to match.
A nice tip is an NW concealer can be used as a color corrector for dark circles!!
This
is especially because the pink undertones in an NW, makes the concealer
slightly orangey, or a salmon color as many people love to call it, and
it helps act as a color corrector, neutralizing the blue/purple
undertones.
Also if you are severely yellow.
Meaning if you feel like look unhealthily yellow.
Yes, there are people who suffers from a medical condition known as "Jaundice", which causes yellowing of the skin as a symptom.
You can opt to go for a NW foundation to help try to 'neutralize' the yellow undertone.
However, in either case, please note that for some reason or other...
NW shades, tend to be darker than the corresponding NC shade of the same number.
So you might have to end up getting an NW concealer/foundation several shade numbers below the NC shade you match.
Well, it's pretty late...
and in the end... it's largely personal preference...
So... I hope I didn't end up confusing another bunch of people.
haha
Nights!
Tesun
Monday, February 11, 2013
Friday, February 1, 2013
#10 - Testers Part 1 (Hygiene)
Mmm... making this a regular... update is more difficult than I thought...
I just can't come up with topics fast enough!
Well, we are FINALLY hitting double digits!! YAY!
Ok, sorry guys... I don't have a BIG issue to release for the double digit occasion... I just don't plan things well... haha
Right, so... let's begin this mini series, "Testers".
Of course, we'd start the bat with the big topic... "Hygiene".
"Why?!" you say?
Well... If you've noticed, I'm pretty particular about hygiene...
And of course, since I'm poor, I tend to buy makeup from Watsons and Guardian... where... the testers... look absolutely, positively... CRAWLING with lil nasties.
Although, occasionally I do splurge on cosmetic sprees...
The importance of testers cannot be undermined, I was adverse to testing once and god knows how many dollars I've wasted on foundations which are a bazillion shades too light or dark for me to save...
Since then... well... I've tried my best to come up with ways to use testers... that doesn't gross the hell out of me.
Hopefully, these will help you too.
The organization of this issue will largely orientate towards 'Drugstore' purchases.
This means testers for products in Watsons, Guardian, your neighbourhood stores... etc where there isn't a clean counter and bright smiley faces of the MUAs trying to help you with your selection at Takashimaya or something.
Of course, at THOSE counters, remember to be thick skinned enough to ask for:
Alright, let's get cracking.
#01 - Wet tissues / Makeup remover wipes
What about them?
Well... always bring them along whereever you go.
Even if you aren't testing anything, wet wipes are useful at unexpected times.
Basically the idea is that after swiping the makeup over your skin...
You can use the wipes to remove it as best as possible.
At least until you can find a decent place to wash it all off properly.
I prefer carrying Unscented Wet Wipes from Watsons, just because they're cheap and they work well enough.
Yes, I do use them to remove makeup too!!
Does an alright job before I reach home and use the makeup remover.
#02 - NEVER test directly on your face
Never.
Really. Don't.
Unless ALL the products have been specially disinfected for your use. At the counters.
If someone offers to give you a makeover, and you see unwashed brushes... walk away.
Chances are... the makeup products aren't disinfected.
I've seen teens and working adults test eyeliners and mascaras directly on their eyes.
Everytime, I stare in horror and try as best as I can to pretend that I wasn't staring at them.
Yes, the testers they were using didn't look half as gross as say... that foundation bottle that cracked and is leaking some oily fluid...
BUT... You have NO idea who used those testers before!!
What if someone who has an eye infection tested it before you? The eyeliner or mascara could be contaminated with the microbe. Chances are... that microbe... is probably infectious.
Even if you brought an alcohol swab with you and disinfected it before using it...
The mascara, for one, is already fully contaminated, since the person using it before wouldn't disinfect it before putting the wand back in.
And that lipstick?
well... who knows if the person who tested it before you had cold sores?
Which by the way, is a viral infection and presents as ulcers at the lips, so the person might just think it's just ulcers...
#03 - Test on your hand
Alright, so... this isn't exactly the BEST representation for your face...
But still, much better than risking an eye infection and blindness.
Testing on the back of your hand is considerably safer and also suitable for a large range of cosmetic products.
This includes... Eyeshadow, eyeliner, eyebrow pencils, blushes and to some extent foundation.
But we'll get to foundation a bit later.
If you are really particular about testing how the eyeliner and eyeshadow will sit on your eyelids...
The skin on the inside of your wrist often is thinner and softer than the back of your hand.
You'd be able to tell if the eyeliner will drag on your eyelid easily.
There really isn't going to be any spot on your body that can represent your lips.
Lips have a special texture, and the base color differs for everyone.
Everyone who's bought a lipstick knows that the color that looks lovely on your skin... might not even show up on the lips.
It really can't be helped...
However, Wayne (yes, I do <3 him) recommends testing lipsticks on your fingertips.
The fingertips are more textured than the back of the hand.
Of course, they probably aren't the same base color as your lips... but still... it's closer than the other alternative.
#04 - Mascaras?
Well, dang!
The rate this goes, you shouldn't ever test a mascara then!!
Haha, good news and bad news
You CAN safely test a mascara, BUT a few swipes won't tell you much about how the mascara wears over the day... it may extend the hair wonderfully... but... maybe it'll smear or flake or sommat.
Oh wait, I have yet to say where to test them... oops.
well... it's not... too strange.
We all have hair on our bodies, they aren't all that different from eyelashes.
So... the easiest place to test that mascara is... yep, on your arm.
Specifically, the arm hair.
What if you had IPL or shaved/waxed it off??
uhh... I guess... grab your best friend or your boyfriend, and test on them??
haha
#05 - Foundations...
QAQ
If the skin on the back of your hand is the same shade as your face...
Then you are one lucky pup and have no problems with testing foundations on your hand.
But of course... that... is pretty rare.
And in actuality... well... foundation SHOULD match your neck/chest.
It's no surprise if your face is several shades darker or lighter than your neck or chest.
The face IS closer to the sun... and your neck and chest get more shade from your hair and clothes than your face does...
So a good place to test foundations would be the neck or your collarbone.
Of course... this'll only work... if you... have access to a medium sized mirror.
haha... I've tried this out with a compact mirror... Let's just say... it was difficult to find an angle to view my collarbone...
#06 - Look at the condition of the product
Alright. This is kinda duhhh...
Basically, you have to judge for yourself if you dare to test it and where would you test it on.
If the product looks absolutely disgusting...
My reasoning is... just WAIT till you reach another store with a tester with a better condition.
Or you could be a good samaritan and... inform the staff of the condition and have them remove it.
They might take a while to replace it though...
Not exactly the best choice of topics for a milestone issue... (only the 10th though!)
but... I guess it'll do... ^^
Hope you guys like it!!
Tesun
I just can't come up with topics fast enough!
Well, we are FINALLY hitting double digits!! YAY!
Ok, sorry guys... I don't have a BIG issue to release for the double digit occasion... I just don't plan things well... haha
Right, so... let's begin this mini series, "Testers".
Of course, we'd start the bat with the big topic... "Hygiene".
"Why?!" you say?
Well... If you've noticed, I'm pretty particular about hygiene...
And of course, since I'm poor, I tend to buy makeup from Watsons and Guardian... where... the testers... look absolutely, positively... CRAWLING with lil nasties.
Although, occasionally I do splurge on cosmetic sprees...
The importance of testers cannot be undermined, I was adverse to testing once and god knows how many dollars I've wasted on foundations which are a bazillion shades too light or dark for me to save...
Since then... well... I've tried my best to come up with ways to use testers... that doesn't gross the hell out of me.
Hopefully, these will help you too.
The organization of this issue will largely orientate towards 'Drugstore' purchases.
This means testers for products in Watsons, Guardian, your neighbourhood stores... etc where there isn't a clean counter and bright smiley faces of the MUAs trying to help you with your selection at Takashimaya or something.
Of course, at THOSE counters, remember to be thick skinned enough to ask for:
- A new applicator to test the product with
- Have the lipstick or product be disinfected for you
- Ask for a sample to bring home and try it out (Some MUAs might not be happy about this one...)
Alright, let's get cracking.
#01 - Wet tissues / Makeup remover wipes
What about them?
Well... always bring them along whereever you go.
Even if you aren't testing anything, wet wipes are useful at unexpected times.
Basically the idea is that after swiping the makeup over your skin...
You can use the wipes to remove it as best as possible.
At least until you can find a decent place to wash it all off properly.
I prefer carrying Unscented Wet Wipes from Watsons, just because they're cheap and they work well enough.
Yes, I do use them to remove makeup too!!
Does an alright job before I reach home and use the makeup remover.
#02 - NEVER test directly on your face
Never.
Really. Don't.
Unless ALL the products have been specially disinfected for your use. At the counters.
If someone offers to give you a makeover, and you see unwashed brushes... walk away.
Chances are... the makeup products aren't disinfected.
I've seen teens and working adults test eyeliners and mascaras directly on their eyes.
Everytime, I stare in horror and try as best as I can to pretend that I wasn't staring at them.
Yes, the testers they were using didn't look half as gross as say... that foundation bottle that cracked and is leaking some oily fluid...
BUT... You have NO idea who used those testers before!!
What if someone who has an eye infection tested it before you? The eyeliner or mascara could be contaminated with the microbe. Chances are... that microbe... is probably infectious.
Even if you brought an alcohol swab with you and disinfected it before using it...
The mascara, for one, is already fully contaminated, since the person using it before wouldn't disinfect it before putting the wand back in.
And that lipstick?
well... who knows if the person who tested it before you had cold sores?
Which by the way, is a viral infection and presents as ulcers at the lips, so the person might just think it's just ulcers...
#03 - Test on your hand
Alright, so... this isn't exactly the BEST representation for your face...
But still, much better than risking an eye infection and blindness.
Testing on the back of your hand is considerably safer and also suitable for a large range of cosmetic products.
This includes... Eyeshadow, eyeliner, eyebrow pencils, blushes and to some extent foundation.
But we'll get to foundation a bit later.
If you are really particular about testing how the eyeliner and eyeshadow will sit on your eyelids...
The skin on the inside of your wrist often is thinner and softer than the back of your hand.
You'd be able to tell if the eyeliner will drag on your eyelid easily.
There really isn't going to be any spot on your body that can represent your lips.
Lips have a special texture, and the base color differs for everyone.
Everyone who's bought a lipstick knows that the color that looks lovely on your skin... might not even show up on the lips.
It really can't be helped...
However, Wayne (yes, I do <3 him) recommends testing lipsticks on your fingertips.
The fingertips are more textured than the back of the hand.
Of course, they probably aren't the same base color as your lips... but still... it's closer than the other alternative.
#04 - Mascaras?
Well, dang!
The rate this goes, you shouldn't ever test a mascara then!!
Haha, good news and bad news
You CAN safely test a mascara, BUT a few swipes won't tell you much about how the mascara wears over the day... it may extend the hair wonderfully... but... maybe it'll smear or flake or sommat.
Oh wait, I have yet to say where to test them... oops.
well... it's not... too strange.
We all have hair on our bodies, they aren't all that different from eyelashes.
So... the easiest place to test that mascara is... yep, on your arm.
Specifically, the arm hair.
What if you had IPL or shaved/waxed it off??
uhh... I guess... grab your best friend or your boyfriend, and test on them??
haha
#05 - Foundations...
QAQ
If the skin on the back of your hand is the same shade as your face...
Then you are one lucky pup and have no problems with testing foundations on your hand.
But of course... that... is pretty rare.
And in actuality... well... foundation SHOULD match your neck/chest.
It's no surprise if your face is several shades darker or lighter than your neck or chest.
The face IS closer to the sun... and your neck and chest get more shade from your hair and clothes than your face does...
So a good place to test foundations would be the neck or your collarbone.
Of course... this'll only work... if you... have access to a medium sized mirror.
haha... I've tried this out with a compact mirror... Let's just say... it was difficult to find an angle to view my collarbone...
#06 - Look at the condition of the product
Alright. This is kinda duhhh...
Basically, you have to judge for yourself if you dare to test it and where would you test it on.
If the product looks absolutely disgusting...
My reasoning is... just WAIT till you reach another store with a tester with a better condition.
Or you could be a good samaritan and... inform the staff of the condition and have them remove it.
They might take a while to replace it though...
Not exactly the best choice of topics for a milestone issue... (only the 10th though!)
but... I guess it'll do... ^^
Hope you guys like it!!
Tesun
Thursday, January 17, 2013
#09 - Eyeliner Tips & Tricks
Hey guys,
MIA-ed a tad bit too long...
First week of school is almost over, done with a test that I really couldn't bring myself to study, and...
well... signed my life over to a company for the next 2 years at least.
YAY!
I know I'll probably miss out a couple of tips here and there, but not to worry, I'll be editing the note asap.
This is one topic that people really ask A LOT.
And I keep overlooking it... Silly me...
Thanks to someone on sgcafe for asking me for help on it and reminding me about this topic.
Soooo... this one is on making things easier for YOU when you do eyeliner.
Tricky lil thing it is, isn't it.... grrr
Let's get started.
#01 - Set up a good environment
Say what? What does this have to do with that?!
Anything and everything, I suppose.
Ok, so basically, this just refers to making sure you have the basics you need before you start, which are:
(a) Eyeliner
(b) Good lighting
(c) A stable surface to rest your elbow on
(d) A mirror, preferably one with a stand.
Why a mirror with a stand? So you can free up the OTHER hand to help you stabilize your eyelid.
You MIGHT need to place the mirror on a box to make it tall enough though...
#02 - Don't hold your breath
What??? Don't you NEED to hold your breath when you concentrate on drawing that line?!
The answer is...
No.
Conversely, holding your breath makes it harder for you to draw your eyeliner.
Why?
Well... uhh... it just is.
Nah, when you hold your breath, and concentrate, there is a higher chance of you shaking.
You can't concentrate on keeping both your head and your hand still at the same time.
Holding your breath puts a lot of tension on you and yeah... one of them... is gonna give.
Instead, breathe through your mouth gently, open your mouth slightly.
Strangely, this helps in making you BLINK less as well!!!
#03 - Keep an eraser with you
Ok, now you KNOW I lost a screw... or two...
Who will put an eraser on their face and rub?!
Heh,
Hold your horses people, give me a chance to explain.
Meh, of course I don't mean an eraser ERASER... those things are for paper... and pencils.
No, what I mean is to get cotton buds.
Yep, cotton buds are amazing, they can help 'fix' mistakes, so you DON'T need to start from scratch again.
Now... thing is...
Different formulations of eyeliner require... different ways of erasing...
So you just have to try the methods below to see if they work, remember if (a) doesn't work, go to (b) and so on.
(a) Use the DRY cotton bud, gently rub at the mistake.
(b) Dampen the cotton bud with tap water, squeeze out excess water. Gently rub at the mistake.
(c) Dampen the cotton bud with WATER-based makeup remover. Gently rub at the mistake.**
After (b) and (c) use the dry end of the cotton bud to absorb excess moisture.
** 2 phase makeup removers are NOT water-based.
If you do not use a water base makeup remover, the residual oils from the makeup remover will eat away at your makeup through the day.
#04 - Look up
Say what? Don't I have to close my eyes?!
Haha... well... yeah you do.
No getting around it. You have to close the eye you are working with...
No, what I mean is... place your mirror to be above eye level.
This FORCES you to tilt your head up and back, so you can see more clearly through the lil silver of space between your eyelids.
When you do this, the lashline is more easily accessed as well, especially for people who have hooded eyelids.
So you can draw the line as close as possible to your eye!
#05 - Choose the type of eyeliner that's more forgiving
Basically... this means... choose one that you can remove mistakes more easily.
Generally, lasting power of eyeliner is: Gel eyeliner > Liquid Eyeliner > Pencil Eyeliner.
Pencil eyeliner can mostly be removed by a dry cotton bud, but tends to smudge and fade quickly.
Most liquid eyeliner can be removed with a damp cotton bud before the eyeliner dries.
Dried waterproof liquid eyeliner may need a cotton bud dampened with water-based makeup remover.
Gel eyeliner... well... generally, they require you to rub harder and sometimes leave a dark smear on the eyelid even if you use the cotton bud with makeup remover.
Hence, you might want to consider using waterproof liquid eyeliner to get the best of both worlds.
#06 - Cheat!
How to get the PERFECT wing?
Well, cheat by using a guide.
I'll not make this note any longer... and I want to promote Youtuber, KlairedelysArt
She has a video about the lil things you can make use of to as a guide.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAcnX3fNpYw
Well... I hope this helps you people?
Tesun
PS:
Please let me know what other topics I should write about?
Please don't ask for reviews though... I'm not loaded so I basically use brands from Watsons. Unless it's something I really want from the US...
Saturday, December 22, 2012
#08 - Long Wear Makeup Made Easy
Ok, so... I took a leaf out of Wayne's book.
I really admire him and as I said before, I trust MALE 'gurus' more than female ones on Youtube.
Wayne is really THE BEST. When I first came across his videos, I thought, "OMG. FINALLY SOMEONE WHO AGREES WITH ME ON NOT USING A STUPIDLY PALE CONCEALER FOR YOUR UNDEREYES!"
Then I discovered neat tips and tricks by watching more videos.
So... yeah, people check him out on Youtube! His channel is called gossmakeupartist.
Well... not everything is from Wayne, but he's an inspiration for this piece, undoubtly.
For each tip, I'll be stating how it performs or how likely it is to work for you.
Remember, every person is unique. What works for me, may not work for you, vice versa.
Also you CAN COMBINE many many tips to get a much better outcome.
So please take everything with a teeny pinch of salt!
So... let's get kicking!!
#1 - Primer
This was covered in much detail under #02 - Prepping your skin.
To avoid this post being too long, please head straight there for more detail.
A primer is good for people with combination to oily skin, as it can absorb oils.
If your makeup is 'sweated off' in the heat, then... this may not be the best solution.
A primer also provides a good base for makeup to adhere to.
It is able to smoothen the skin, to some extent, help colors look more vibrant, as well as help your makeup stick to your face.
I do use a face primer for myself and clients on event days.
I'm currently using the NYX Studio Perfect Photo-Loving Primer.
#2 - Choose Long Wearing Products
Ok, so this isn't exactly a tip.
Everyone will definitely want their products to be long wearing... but how do you know if it is?!
Let me give a teeny bit of advice.
Foundations:
Look for foundations which advertise 16hrs of wearability.
Logic dictates that ones that state 24hrs would be even better, but take note that some 24hr formulations tend to set very quickly so you might not be able to blend it out in time.
(i.e.: the new formulation of the Revlon Colorstay Liquid Foundation is 24hrs compared to the old one which is 16hrs)
Lipstick:
Before I start on this... let me say that... lipsticks will NEVER stay on more than ~3hrs.
You do have to reapply it, especially after eating.
However, you may choose to find a Lip Stain OR a Lip Paint.
Lip Stains will leave a sheer tint to your lips which lasts fairly long.
Lip Paints on the other hand, are highly concentrated with pigment and a very little is sufficient ans as they are extremely viscous in nature, do stay on much longer than lipsticks.
I'm currently using the SLEEK Pout Paints, which are an alternative to the Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tars.
Mascara:
There are many many types of formulation (drier or wetter formulation) as well as many many types of mascara wands.
I can't tell you in words which are better...
BUT, for a mascara in terms of staying power, look for WATERPROOF mascaras.
ok, duh... but that's not all.
Unfortunately, you have to test out the mascara for a couple of times to determine how 'flaky' it is.
If you feel that your lashes become dry and brittle or you find lil black bits falling off over the day... it is NOT your ideal mascara.
This differs for everyone because everyone's method of applying mascara is different.
Eyeliner:
Ok, generally... this is the rule about how long eyeliners wear
Gel >= Liquid > Pencil
Gel eyeliners work for 90% of people. The other 10% are like me and have superpowers that melt eyeliner like crazy.
Liquid eyeliners... well... some aren't waterproof and then some are just crappy.
Pencil eyeliners will not last more than 1hr. You'd end up with a very smudgy line or a non-existent one after 1hr.
#3 - Makeup Setting Spray / Finishing Spray
Ok... this is one EXPENSIVE PRODUCT but it WORKS.
A good one will not only 'set' your powder makeup, but also make it look more natural.
Note that this product is to be used over POWDER products on your face.
If you spray if directly on your face covered with liquid foundation, don't expect it to last much longer.
I'm currently using Skindinavia Cool Flash Makeup Finish.
This particular product is designed so that your face, after spraying, will feel less hot and produce less perspiration.
Unfortunately, I had to spree this item over and it cost me a small bomb...
Similar products available in Singapore are sold under Urban Decay, but... here's the catch. Skindinavia makes them.
#4 - Hairspray
This... isn't highly recommended... for reasons below...
BUT if you are going to under some very hot spotlights, it is a trade secret in the industry.
Rather than the makeup setting spray or finishing sprays, makeup artists behind the scenes on runways, use cheaper hairspray instead.
It definitely holds the makeup on as well as, if not better than, setting sprays.
BUT!
Hairspray will clog up your pores, therefore... giving you more skin problemsAND sometimes leave a shiny finish to the skin.
To remove the shine, lightly pat a layer of powder (foundation, setting powder) over the DRIED hairspray on your face.
#5 - Layering Product
Many people underestimate layering.
They just slop on a thick layer of liquid foundation and call it a day.
Nope, that will DEFINITELY slide off within 2hrs.
Layering means to do thin coats of the product and let that dry before applying another coat.
#6 - Setting Liquids and Creams with Powders
Very basic technique.
After you applied your layers of foundation, lightly go over with a pressed powder or a powder foundation.
What people don't know... is that they can do the same for blush.
Apply a cream blush (i.e.: the new Jelly blush by Maybelline) or a lil bit of lipstick in a suitable color to act as a base and blend it out.
Then top it off with your powder blush for more vibrant and longer lasting color.
Same with Eyeshadows!!Use a cream eyeshadow or a gel eyeliner in the correct color as a base and then apply your eyeshadow!!!
The same is recommended for gel eyeliners... but honestly, it didn't do any good for me...
I got raccoon eyes within 10minutes. I guess my black eyeshadow was too black!! haha
#7 - Eyebrow gel
If your eyebrow color doesn't last long enough, apply a thin coat of eyebrow gel or clear mascara over it.
TheFaceShop carries a clear mascara which is fairly generous in size.
#8 - Blot
If your face gets oily, you can blot with the oil absorbent facial papers.
If you perspire a lot, blot gently with a tissue. Please take a look in the mirror to make sure that there isn't any bits of tissue stuck on your face!!
Alright mateys, I'm turning in soon and my brain is mush.
I can't dreg anymore tips from my brain at the moment, so... well... I'll update this note if I DO think of sommat.
Tesun
I really admire him and as I said before, I trust MALE 'gurus' more than female ones on Youtube.
Wayne is really THE BEST. When I first came across his videos, I thought, "OMG. FINALLY SOMEONE WHO AGREES WITH ME ON NOT USING A STUPIDLY PALE CONCEALER FOR YOUR UNDEREYES!"
Then I discovered neat tips and tricks by watching more videos.
So... yeah, people check him out on Youtube! His channel is called gossmakeupartist.
Well... not everything is from Wayne, but he's an inspiration for this piece, undoubtly.
For each tip, I'll be stating how it performs or how likely it is to work for you.
Remember, every person is unique. What works for me, may not work for you, vice versa.
Also you CAN COMBINE many many tips to get a much better outcome.
So please take everything with a teeny pinch of salt!
So... let's get kicking!!
#1 - Primer
This was covered in much detail under #02 - Prepping your skin.
To avoid this post being too long, please head straight there for more detail.
A primer is good for people with combination to oily skin, as it can absorb oils.
If your makeup is 'sweated off' in the heat, then... this may not be the best solution.
A primer also provides a good base for makeup to adhere to.
It is able to smoothen the skin, to some extent, help colors look more vibrant, as well as help your makeup stick to your face.
I do use a face primer for myself and clients on event days.
I'm currently using the NYX Studio Perfect Photo-Loving Primer.
#2 - Choose Long Wearing Products
Ok, so this isn't exactly a tip.
Everyone will definitely want their products to be long wearing... but how do you know if it is?!
Let me give a teeny bit of advice.
Foundations:
Look for foundations which advertise 16hrs of wearability.
Logic dictates that ones that state 24hrs would be even better, but take note that some 24hr formulations tend to set very quickly so you might not be able to blend it out in time.
(i.e.: the new formulation of the Revlon Colorstay Liquid Foundation is 24hrs compared to the old one which is 16hrs)
Lipstick:
Before I start on this... let me say that... lipsticks will NEVER stay on more than ~3hrs.
You do have to reapply it, especially after eating.
However, you may choose to find a Lip Stain OR a Lip Paint.
Lip Stains will leave a sheer tint to your lips which lasts fairly long.
Lip Paints on the other hand, are highly concentrated with pigment and a very little is sufficient ans as they are extremely viscous in nature, do stay on much longer than lipsticks.
I'm currently using the SLEEK Pout Paints, which are an alternative to the Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tars.
Mascara:
There are many many types of formulation (drier or wetter formulation) as well as many many types of mascara wands.
I can't tell you in words which are better...
BUT, for a mascara in terms of staying power, look for WATERPROOF mascaras.
ok, duh... but that's not all.
Unfortunately, you have to test out the mascara for a couple of times to determine how 'flaky' it is.
If you feel that your lashes become dry and brittle or you find lil black bits falling off over the day... it is NOT your ideal mascara.
This differs for everyone because everyone's method of applying mascara is different.
Eyeliner:
Ok, generally... this is the rule about how long eyeliners wear
Gel >= Liquid > Pencil
Gel eyeliners work for 90% of people. The other 10% are like me and have superpowers that melt eyeliner like crazy.
Liquid eyeliners... well... some aren't waterproof and then some are just crappy.
Pencil eyeliners will not last more than 1hr. You'd end up with a very smudgy line or a non-existent one after 1hr.
#3 - Makeup Setting Spray / Finishing Spray
Ok... this is one EXPENSIVE PRODUCT but it WORKS.
A good one will not only 'set' your powder makeup, but also make it look more natural.
Note that this product is to be used over POWDER products on your face.
If you spray if directly on your face covered with liquid foundation, don't expect it to last much longer.
I'm currently using Skindinavia Cool Flash Makeup Finish.
This particular product is designed so that your face, after spraying, will feel less hot and produce less perspiration.
Unfortunately, I had to spree this item over and it cost me a small bomb...
Similar products available in Singapore are sold under Urban Decay, but... here's the catch. Skindinavia makes them.
#4 - Hairspray
This... isn't highly recommended... for reasons below...
BUT if you are going to under some very hot spotlights, it is a trade secret in the industry.
Rather than the makeup setting spray or finishing sprays, makeup artists behind the scenes on runways, use cheaper hairspray instead.
It definitely holds the makeup on as well as, if not better than, setting sprays.
BUT!
Hairspray will clog up your pores, therefore... giving you more skin problemsAND sometimes leave a shiny finish to the skin.
To remove the shine, lightly pat a layer of powder (foundation, setting powder) over the DRIED hairspray on your face.
#5 - Layering Product
Many people underestimate layering.
They just slop on a thick layer of liquid foundation and call it a day.
Nope, that will DEFINITELY slide off within 2hrs.
Layering means to do thin coats of the product and let that dry before applying another coat.
#6 - Setting Liquids and Creams with Powders
Very basic technique.
After you applied your layers of foundation, lightly go over with a pressed powder or a powder foundation.
What people don't know... is that they can do the same for blush.
Apply a cream blush (i.e.: the new Jelly blush by Maybelline) or a lil bit of lipstick in a suitable color to act as a base and blend it out.
Then top it off with your powder blush for more vibrant and longer lasting color.
Same with Eyeshadows!!Use a cream eyeshadow or a gel eyeliner in the correct color as a base and then apply your eyeshadow!!!
The same is recommended for gel eyeliners... but honestly, it didn't do any good for me...
I got raccoon eyes within 10minutes. I guess my black eyeshadow was too black!! haha
#7 - Eyebrow gel
If your eyebrow color doesn't last long enough, apply a thin coat of eyebrow gel or clear mascara over it.
TheFaceShop carries a clear mascara which is fairly generous in size.
#8 - Blot
If your face gets oily, you can blot with the oil absorbent facial papers.
If you perspire a lot, blot gently with a tissue. Please take a look in the mirror to make sure that there isn't any bits of tissue stuck on your face!!
Alright mateys, I'm turning in soon and my brain is mush.
I can't dreg anymore tips from my brain at the moment, so... well... I'll update this note if I DO think of sommat.
Tesun
Friday, December 7, 2012
#07 - Brushes vs Sponges Part 3 (Eyes)
Following up with the next installment!!
Yep, we are continuing in the same confusing manner.
Today, we shall go through:
Brushes:
- Flat Shader Brush
- Fluffy Blending Brush
- Crease Brush
- Pointy-type Liner Brush
- Angled Liner Brush
** We will not be touching on Pencil or mascara brushes, either because I have no experience with them or because this will get too long!
Sponges:
- Eyeshadow Applicators
- Felt Tip Applicators (Just throwing this in to make it slightly more balanced!)
1. Flat Shader Brush
Well, as the name implies, this brush has a flat ferule, and the bristles generally form a gentle arc.
The main purpose of this brush is to apply eyeshadow.
There are many variations to this brush, so let's get a brief coverage on the general bits.
The brush can be densely packed or medium packed bristles, the more densely packed, the more pigment it picks up and applies.
The brush can also be made of natural hair bristles (e.g.: goat, squirrel... etc) or synthetic bristles.
Synthetic bristles are preferred for liquid and cream products.
Pros:
- Comes in many different sizes. Can choose a suitable size for any use.
- Versatile, you can basically use it for other purposes (e.g.: concealer)
- Good for packing on color for more vibrancy
- Can be used to blend colors
Cons:
- Some may have stiff bristles which irritate the skin
- Difficult to blend eyeshadow out
Method of Application:
1. Gently dab the side of your brush into your eyeshadow pot, drag it across a couple times IF the eyeshadow does not want to transfer
2. Tap the brush gently against the side of your table, palette or compact mirror (anything actually...) to prevent fall out.
3. Press the side of the brush against your closed eyelid. Dab until you cover the entire area desired.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 until you get your desired effect.
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(a) Eyeshadow Applicators
2. Fluffy Blending Brush
Yep, it's fluffy.
Generally, this brush has a round ferule, with medium packed bristles.
The length of the bristles vary. Shorter bristles pack more color and longer bristles blend out eyeshadow better.
The bristles are generally shaped into a dome shape.
Pros:
- Good for blending (duh...)
- A shorter bristle brush can also replace the use of a Flat Shader Brush. A good one is the e.l.f Blending Eye Brush.
- Longer bristle brush is good for people who are afraid of applying too much eyeshadow/ want to build up their eyeshadow gradually.
Cons:
- Loses it's shape fairly easily
- Result heavily dependent on technique
Method of Application:
-Packing on color-
1. Dip the bristles into the eyeshadow pot.
2. Tap off the excess
3. Dab the bristles against your closed eyelid
4. Repeat steps 1-3. It probably will take longer than a Flat Shader Brush
-Blending-
1. Dab the bristles into the LIGHTER colored eyeshadow pot.
2. Tap off the excess
3. Place the brush at the part of your eyelid already covered with the darker eyeshadow color
4. Lightly buff the eyeshadow out with teeny circular motions while moving the brush left to right across the eyelid.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 as many times until blended.
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(a) CLEAN Eyeshadow Applicators
3. Crease Brush
Fairly similar to the Blending brush but often is smaller with shorter bristles.
The shape is usually slightly more pointy than the blending brush too!
Usually used to help define the crease of your eye with a darker shade of eyeshadow.
The crease is the part of your eyelid which corresponds to the space between your eye socket and your eyeball.It does NOT hurt to press lightly on that area.
Pros:
- Smaller brush head allows it to fit into the 'crease' of your eye easily
- Able to place color more accurately
- Shorter bristles allows you to concentrate more color into the crease
Cons:
- Loses it's shape fairly easily
- Result heavily dependent on technique
Method of Application:
1. Dip the bristles into the eyeshadow pot (try not to get a lot of product on the brush)
2. Tap off the excess
3. Locate the crease (with your finger, if you are not familiar with it position), position the tip of the brush on the outer side of the crease (i.e.: the side further away from your nose)
4. Lightly move the brush over your crease in a windshield wiper motion, back and forth.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 as necessary to get the desired intensity.
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(a) Eyeshadow Applicators (Not really good for this though)
4. Pointy-type Liner Brush
Well... This brush comes to a sharp point, yes, captain obvious.
Eyeliner brushes are usually made of synthetic bristles. In general.
The bristles are usually pretty stiff to improve control.
Pros:
- Stiff bristles allows for more control when lining your eyes.
- Synthetic bristles are good for liquid and cream products (e.g.: gel eyeliner)
Cons:
- Stiff bristles might be too harsh for people with sensitive skin
- Splaying of bristles/brush losing it's shape. Defeats the purpose it was designed for
Method of Application:
1. Scoop out some gel eyeliner using a disinfected spatula to reduce/prevent contamination of the main pot.
2. Dip the tip of the brush into the scooped out eyeliner.
3. Lay the brush such that the side of the bristles is in contact with a clean portion of the spatula/back of your hand.
4. Gently roll the brush back and forth to create a nice point to the bristles.
5. Place the brush against your lashline and draw a line. The eyelid tends to move less if you draw from the inner corner to the outer corner.
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(b) Felt Tip Applicators
5. Angled Liner Brush
This brush has a flat ferule, and usually is made of short synthetic bristles.
The bristles are cut and arranged in a manner such that they form into a slanted shape, much like a tetrahedral on it's side.
Pros:
- Larger surface area to be in contact with your lashline, makes eyelining faster and easier.
- Slanted/Angled shape helps as it can follow the contour of your eye, distributing the pressure from the hand more evenly.
- Synthetic bristles are good for liquid and cream products (e.g.: gel eyeliner)
- Less likely to lose it's shape
Cons:
- Need to find a brush with a good amount of bristles to make it stiff enough but not too much that it makes a fat line.
Method of Application:
1. Scoop out some gel eyeliner using a disinfected spatula to reduce/prevent contamination of the main pot.
2. Dip the tip of the brush into the scooped out eyeliner.
3. Lay the brush such that the bristles on the angled edge is in contact with a clean portion of the spatula/back of your hand.
4. Gently move the brush back and forth to make the bristles form a thinner edge.
5. Place the brush against your lashline and draw a line. The eyelid tends to move less if you draw from the inner corner to the outer corner.
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(b) Felt Tip Applicators
(a) Eyeshadow Applicators
These are the sponge tip applicators you get when you buy a eyeshadow duo/trio/quad/palette.
They can be dual or single ended.
Pros:
- Very easily obtained. Do not need to buy separate from the makeup.
- Good for packing on eyeshadow for more intensity.
- Can be used to blend eyeshadow
Cons:
- Blending eyeshadow can make the colors muddy, especially if you do not use a clean applicator
- Foam tends to absorb a lot of product.
- Foam also absorbs oils and dirt from the face and air, is a good breeding ground for bacteria
- Not durable. The foam tends to fall off the plastic handle after a while
- Not easily washed/cleaned. See "#05 - Brushes vs Sponges Part 1 (Hygiene)" for more details.
Method of Application:
-Packing on eyeshadow-
1. Press the side of the applicator against the eyeshadow and firmly wiggle it a couple of times to pick up color
2. Tap off excess product if the product is very powdery
3. Gently pat on the eyeshadow onto your closed eyelid
4. Repeat steps 1-3 to get desired intensity
-Blending eyeshadow-
1. Apply both the darker and lighter shades of eyeshadow as described in packing on eyeshadow
2. Using a clean side of the applicator, pick up a little bit of the lighter shade of eyeshadow. Tap off the excess product if needed
3. Place the applicator at the border where the 2 colors meet.
4. Gently move the applicator across the border while wiggling it slightly to blur the border.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 till you obtain the desired result.
Brush Equivalents: (See Above)
1. Flat Shader Brush
2. Fluffy Blending Brush
3. Crease Brush
(b) Felt Tip Applicators
Normally comes attached to liquid eyeliners.
Either as the pen nib in the pen-type liquid eyeliner or the applicator of dip-type liquid eyeliners.
Pros:
- Easy to use, more beginner friendly than brushes
- Dip-type: Picks up a lot of liquid eyeliner, need to redip less to line the eye.
Cons:
- Easily loses it's 'shape' (i.e.: condition where there's lil fibres or wonky bits attached to the tip)
- Dip-type: Need to clean the stem of the applicator periodically as it tends to build up and gunk along the length.
- Pen type: Needs to be left on it's side or upside down so that the eyeliner actually comes out.
- Pen type: For some brands/formulation, when left upside down, will cause lots of product to leak and form a mess when you try to use it.
Method of Application:
Self explanatory, so... I'm going to skip this.
Brush Equivalents: (See Above)
4. Pointy Liner Brush
5. Angled Liner Brush
DISCLAIMER:
Brush and sponge equivalents listed here are not perfect equivalents. Specific brushes have their benefits over the sponge equivalent, but you can replace them.
Ok. That's the end of it!
I was going to take a picture and add it into this note, but I washed all my brushes this morning and they are drying right now...
So... I guess I'll do it another day.
I don't think I have a felt tip sample though... I threw my eyeliner away a while ago, I'll see what to do later... I guess.
Nights Guys!
Tesun
Yep, we are continuing in the same confusing manner.
Today, we shall go through:
Brushes:
- Flat Shader Brush
- Fluffy Blending Brush
- Crease Brush
- Pointy-type Liner Brush
- Angled Liner Brush
** We will not be touching on Pencil or mascara brushes, either because I have no experience with them or because this will get too long!
Sponges:
- Eyeshadow Applicators
- Felt Tip Applicators (Just throwing this in to make it slightly more balanced!)
1. Flat Shader Brush
Well, as the name implies, this brush has a flat ferule, and the bristles generally form a gentle arc.
The main purpose of this brush is to apply eyeshadow.
There are many variations to this brush, so let's get a brief coverage on the general bits.
The brush can be densely packed or medium packed bristles, the more densely packed, the more pigment it picks up and applies.
The brush can also be made of natural hair bristles (e.g.: goat, squirrel... etc) or synthetic bristles.
Synthetic bristles are preferred for liquid and cream products.
Pros:
- Comes in many different sizes. Can choose a suitable size for any use.
- Versatile, you can basically use it for other purposes (e.g.: concealer)
- Good for packing on color for more vibrancy
- Can be used to blend colors
Cons:
- Some may have stiff bristles which irritate the skin
- Difficult to blend eyeshadow out
Method of Application:
1. Gently dab the side of your brush into your eyeshadow pot, drag it across a couple times IF the eyeshadow does not want to transfer
2. Tap the brush gently against the side of your table, palette or compact mirror (anything actually...) to prevent fall out.
3. Press the side of the brush against your closed eyelid. Dab until you cover the entire area desired.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 until you get your desired effect.
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(a) Eyeshadow Applicators
2. Fluffy Blending Brush
Yep, it's fluffy.
Generally, this brush has a round ferule, with medium packed bristles.
The length of the bristles vary. Shorter bristles pack more color and longer bristles blend out eyeshadow better.
The bristles are generally shaped into a dome shape.
Pros:
- Good for blending (duh...)
- A shorter bristle brush can also replace the use of a Flat Shader Brush. A good one is the e.l.f Blending Eye Brush.
- Longer bristle brush is good for people who are afraid of applying too much eyeshadow/ want to build up their eyeshadow gradually.
Cons:
- Loses it's shape fairly easily
- Result heavily dependent on technique
Method of Application:
-Packing on color-
1. Dip the bristles into the eyeshadow pot.
2. Tap off the excess
3. Dab the bristles against your closed eyelid
4. Repeat steps 1-3. It probably will take longer than a Flat Shader Brush
-Blending-
1. Dab the bristles into the LIGHTER colored eyeshadow pot.
2. Tap off the excess
3. Place the brush at the part of your eyelid already covered with the darker eyeshadow color
4. Lightly buff the eyeshadow out with teeny circular motions while moving the brush left to right across the eyelid.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 as many times until blended.
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(a) CLEAN Eyeshadow Applicators
3. Crease Brush
Fairly similar to the Blending brush but often is smaller with shorter bristles.
The shape is usually slightly more pointy than the blending brush too!
Usually used to help define the crease of your eye with a darker shade of eyeshadow.
The crease is the part of your eyelid which corresponds to the space between your eye socket and your eyeball.It does NOT hurt to press lightly on that area.
Pros:
- Smaller brush head allows it to fit into the 'crease' of your eye easily
- Able to place color more accurately
- Shorter bristles allows you to concentrate more color into the crease
Cons:
- Loses it's shape fairly easily
- Result heavily dependent on technique
Method of Application:
1. Dip the bristles into the eyeshadow pot (try not to get a lot of product on the brush)
2. Tap off the excess
3. Locate the crease (with your finger, if you are not familiar with it position), position the tip of the brush on the outer side of the crease (i.e.: the side further away from your nose)
4. Lightly move the brush over your crease in a windshield wiper motion, back and forth.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 as necessary to get the desired intensity.
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(a) Eyeshadow Applicators (Not really good for this though)
4. Pointy-type Liner Brush
Well... This brush comes to a sharp point, yes, captain obvious.
Eyeliner brushes are usually made of synthetic bristles. In general.
The bristles are usually pretty stiff to improve control.
Pros:
- Stiff bristles allows for more control when lining your eyes.
- Synthetic bristles are good for liquid and cream products (e.g.: gel eyeliner)
Cons:
- Stiff bristles might be too harsh for people with sensitive skin
- Splaying of bristles/brush losing it's shape. Defeats the purpose it was designed for
Method of Application:
1. Scoop out some gel eyeliner using a disinfected spatula to reduce/prevent contamination of the main pot.
2. Dip the tip of the brush into the scooped out eyeliner.
3. Lay the brush such that the side of the bristles is in contact with a clean portion of the spatula/back of your hand.
4. Gently roll the brush back and forth to create a nice point to the bristles.
5. Place the brush against your lashline and draw a line. The eyelid tends to move less if you draw from the inner corner to the outer corner.
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(b) Felt Tip Applicators
5. Angled Liner Brush
This brush has a flat ferule, and usually is made of short synthetic bristles.
The bristles are cut and arranged in a manner such that they form into a slanted shape, much like a tetrahedral on it's side.
Pros:
- Larger surface area to be in contact with your lashline, makes eyelining faster and easier.
- Slanted/Angled shape helps as it can follow the contour of your eye, distributing the pressure from the hand more evenly.
- Synthetic bristles are good for liquid and cream products (e.g.: gel eyeliner)
- Less likely to lose it's shape
Cons:
- Need to find a brush with a good amount of bristles to make it stiff enough but not too much that it makes a fat line.
Method of Application:
1. Scoop out some gel eyeliner using a disinfected spatula to reduce/prevent contamination of the main pot.
2. Dip the tip of the brush into the scooped out eyeliner.
3. Lay the brush such that the bristles on the angled edge is in contact with a clean portion of the spatula/back of your hand.
4. Gently move the brush back and forth to make the bristles form a thinner edge.
5. Place the brush against your lashline and draw a line. The eyelid tends to move less if you draw from the inner corner to the outer corner.
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(b) Felt Tip Applicators
(a) Eyeshadow Applicators
These are the sponge tip applicators you get when you buy a eyeshadow duo/trio/quad/palette.
They can be dual or single ended.
Pros:
- Very easily obtained. Do not need to buy separate from the makeup.
- Good for packing on eyeshadow for more intensity.
- Can be used to blend eyeshadow
Cons:
- Blending eyeshadow can make the colors muddy, especially if you do not use a clean applicator
- Foam tends to absorb a lot of product.
- Foam also absorbs oils and dirt from the face and air, is a good breeding ground for bacteria
- Not durable. The foam tends to fall off the plastic handle after a while
- Not easily washed/cleaned. See "#05 - Brushes vs Sponges Part 1 (Hygiene)" for more details.
Method of Application:
-Packing on eyeshadow-
1. Press the side of the applicator against the eyeshadow and firmly wiggle it a couple of times to pick up color
2. Tap off excess product if the product is very powdery
3. Gently pat on the eyeshadow onto your closed eyelid
4. Repeat steps 1-3 to get desired intensity
-Blending eyeshadow-
1. Apply both the darker and lighter shades of eyeshadow as described in packing on eyeshadow
2. Using a clean side of the applicator, pick up a little bit of the lighter shade of eyeshadow. Tap off the excess product if needed
3. Place the applicator at the border where the 2 colors meet.
4. Gently move the applicator across the border while wiggling it slightly to blur the border.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 till you obtain the desired result.
Brush Equivalents: (See Above)
1. Flat Shader Brush
2. Fluffy Blending Brush
3. Crease Brush
(b) Felt Tip Applicators
Normally comes attached to liquid eyeliners.
Either as the pen nib in the pen-type liquid eyeliner or the applicator of dip-type liquid eyeliners.
Pros:
- Easy to use, more beginner friendly than brushes
- Dip-type: Picks up a lot of liquid eyeliner, need to redip less to line the eye.
Cons:
- Easily loses it's 'shape' (i.e.: condition where there's lil fibres or wonky bits attached to the tip)
- Dip-type: Need to clean the stem of the applicator periodically as it tends to build up and gunk along the length.
- Pen type: Needs to be left on it's side or upside down so that the eyeliner actually comes out.
- Pen type: For some brands/formulation, when left upside down, will cause lots of product to leak and form a mess when you try to use it.
Method of Application:
Self explanatory, so... I'm going to skip this.
Brush Equivalents: (See Above)
4. Pointy Liner Brush
5. Angled Liner Brush
DISCLAIMER:
Brush and sponge equivalents listed here are not perfect equivalents. Specific brushes have their benefits over the sponge equivalent, but you can replace them.
Ok. That's the end of it!
I was going to take a picture and add it into this note, but I washed all my brushes this morning and they are drying right now...
So... I guess I'll do it another day.
I don't think I have a felt tip sample though... I threw my eyeliner away a while ago, I'll see what to do later... I guess.
Nights Guys!
Tesun
Tuesday, November 13, 2012
#06 - Brushes vs Sponges Part 2 (Face)
Welcome to the second part of this Brushes vs Sponges Smackdown!
Haha, ok let's be more serious here.
To actually go into detail with all the different types of brushes would make for a VERY long note.
So I'll be sharing my views and opinions of the many many brushes categorized into smaller segments.
Of course, a comparison to the sponge equivalents will be added.
This one is dedicated to FACE brushes and sponges.
This might get a lil messy, but I'll try my best to make it flow.
For reference sake, I will be writing each section according to the BRUSHES, which are numbered, and also list the Sponge equivalents for that brush, which will be lettered.
Confused yet?
Haha, each type of brush or sponge will get a brief description of the tool in question, just so we all can follow what the hell I'm talking about.
Let's get started, first I'm going to list the types of brushes and sponges we will go through in this note.
Just so I don't forget anything later on... I'm really scatterbrained you see...
Brushes:
- Foundation Brush
- Stippling Brush
- Kabuki Brush
- Powder Brush
- Angled Blush Brush
- Blush Brush
** There are many many more, but these are what I'll be focusing on right now.
IF you need help with other kinds of brushes, feel free to drop me a message!
Sponges:
- Disposable Wedges
- Foundation Pad Sponges
- Velour Puffs
** I have no experience with the Beauty Blender, so I'm not going through it.
Please note that these sponges are largely used for Foundation, Powder and perhaps Concealing.
They are not suitable for blush or contour.
1. Foundation Brush
A foundation brush refers to the brush that has a flat ferule, kinda shaped like a huge flat shader eyeshadow brush.
It is usually fairly densely packed with synthetic bristles, making it good for use with creams and liquid products as it absorbs lesser product.
Pros:
- Good for liquid or cream products
- Large brush head makes application time shorter
- Especially ideal for use with face paints and clown white if you need to cover large areas.
- Fairly easy to use, just like a paintbrush
Cons:
- Not for powder products
- High likely to leave streaks in your foundation, especially if your product is not very pigmented
- Difficult to blend things with
Method of Application:
1. Either pick up product directly onto the brush OR dot product onto face with fingers
2. Start brushing the product on face from the center outwards (i.e: center of forehead to the hairline; nose to the cheeks...etc)
3. Repeat until you like the result.
Sponge Equivalents (See Below)
(a) Disposable Wedges
2. Stippling Brush
A stippling brush typically has 2 layers of bristles, usually shorter black and longer white ones.
Densely packed shorter natural hair bristles, with longer more sparsely distributed synthetic bristles.
Pros:
- Good for liquids and cream products
- Gives an airbrushed look if applied correctly
- Builds up coverage easily
Cons:
- Too sparsely packed for powder products
- Technique is more time consuming
Method of Application:
1. Spot product onto your face OR lightly dip the SYNTHETIC bristles into product
2. DAB the brush lightly all over the face (hence the name, Stippling brush)
3. If there's any area which doesn't seem to blend well enough, lightly swirl the brush over it, but stippling should be the main mode of action
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(a) Disposable Wedges
3. Kabuki Brush
A Kabuki brush is generally an extremely short handled brush, densely packed with short to medium length natural bristles, forming a flat top or domed brush shape.
Pros:
- Ideal for powder products
- Easy to use
- Fairly quick application
- IF used with a good coverage powder fondation (e.g.: MAC Studio Fix Powder Foundation) can give a flawless matte finish
Cons:
- Can look cakey if too much foundation is applied (minimize by using a makeup setting spray!)
- Build up of product may emphasize dry spots and eczema
- Bit difficult to get used to the short handle
Method of Application:
1. Hold the stubby handle of thebrush with ALL 5 fingers
2. Swirl the brush into your powder compact
3. Tap off the excess (if your powder compact gives a lot of fallout, if not... skip)
4. Place the brush on face and swirl the brush over your face to buff the foundation onto your face
5. Repeat to cover all your face.
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(a) Disposable Wedges
(b) Foundation Pads
4. Powder Brush
A powder brush looks like the older brother of a blush brush, usually with a round ferule.
It can be medium to densely packed with medium to long natural bristles.
The powder brush in the image provided looks pretty small compared to the kabuki brush, but compare it to the blush brush!
Pros:
- Good for lightweight powders (e.g.: Loose powders)
Cons:
- Not for liquid or cream products
- Not ideal to apply powder foundation
Method of Application:
1. Tap out loose powder into the cap of the bottle
2. Dip the brush into the cap
3. Lightly press the product onto your face OR brush lightly onto the face (pressing is better though!)
4. Repeat as necessary.
5. Use the brush to brush off the excess powder off your face
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(c) Velour Puffs
5. Angled Blush Brush
An angled blush brush is basically a blush brush where the bristles are arranged into a sloped shape
Pros:
- Good for powder blush, bronzer or contour
- Synthetic bristle brushes can be used with liquid or cream products
- Easy to 'carve' out the contours with the angled brush
Cons:
- None especially?
** The method of application depends on what you are going to use it for...
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
-Nil-
6. Blush Brush
An blush brush is a small brush which can have a flat or round ferule, usually not densely packed.
Pros:
- Can apply powder blush, bronzer or contour
- Synthetic bristle brushes can be used with liquid or cream products
Cons:
- Not as easy to use as an angled brush
** The method of application depends on what you are going to use it for...
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
-Nil-
(a) Disposable Wedges
Triangular latex sponges.
Pros:
- Most versatile tool, can be used for powder, liquid and cream products
- Soft texture makes it comfortable and easy to blend products
Cons:
- Absorb a lot of product
- Can get costly if you use many pieces, since it is disposable
Tips for application:
1. Moisten the sponge and squeeze out the excess water for ease of blending
Brushes it can replace: (See Above)
1. Foundation Brushes
2. Stippling Brush
3. Kabuki Brush
(b) Foundation Pads
Usually circular or rectangular latex sponges that come with compacts
Pros:
- Good for powder foundation
- Do not need to replace very often (every 3-4 months)
Cons:
- Absorb a lot of product
- Flat shape makes it more difficult to hold than disposable wedge
- Need to wash the sponge at least every 2-3 weeks
Brushes it can replace: (See Above)
3. Kabuki Brush
(c) Velour Puffs
Usually circular sponges, lined with cloth like material, which is fluffy!
Pros:
- Good for lightweight powders
Cons:
- Absorb a lot of product
- Should be washed every 2-3 weeks
- Need gentle care
Brushes it can replace: (See Above)
4. Powder Brush
Velour puffs maybe included in SOME blush products, but they do not really have the ability to help in application
DISCLAIMER:
Brush and sponge equivalents listed here are not perfect equivalents. Specific brushes have their benefits over the sponge equivalent, but you can replace them.
Haha, ok let's be more serious here.
To actually go into detail with all the different types of brushes would make for a VERY long note.
So I'll be sharing my views and opinions of the many many brushes categorized into smaller segments.
Of course, a comparison to the sponge equivalents will be added.
This one is dedicated to FACE brushes and sponges.
This might get a lil messy, but I'll try my best to make it flow.
For reference sake, I will be writing each section according to the BRUSHES, which are numbered, and also list the Sponge equivalents for that brush, which will be lettered.
Confused yet?
Haha, each type of brush or sponge will get a brief description of the tool in question, just so we all can follow what the hell I'm talking about.
Let's get started, first I'm going to list the types of brushes and sponges we will go through in this note.
Just so I don't forget anything later on... I'm really scatterbrained you see...
Brushes:
- Foundation Brush
- Stippling Brush
- Kabuki Brush
- Powder Brush
- Angled Blush Brush
- Blush Brush
** There are many many more, but these are what I'll be focusing on right now.
IF you need help with other kinds of brushes, feel free to drop me a message!
Sponges:
- Disposable Wedges
- Foundation Pad Sponges
- Velour Puffs
** I have no experience with the Beauty Blender, so I'm not going through it.
Please note that these sponges are largely used for Foundation, Powder and perhaps Concealing.
They are not suitable for blush or contour.
1. Foundation Brush
A foundation brush refers to the brush that has a flat ferule, kinda shaped like a huge flat shader eyeshadow brush.
It is usually fairly densely packed with synthetic bristles, making it good for use with creams and liquid products as it absorbs lesser product.
Pros:
- Good for liquid or cream products
- Large brush head makes application time shorter
- Especially ideal for use with face paints and clown white if you need to cover large areas.
- Fairly easy to use, just like a paintbrush
Cons:
- Not for powder products
- High likely to leave streaks in your foundation, especially if your product is not very pigmented
- Difficult to blend things with
Method of Application:
1. Either pick up product directly onto the brush OR dot product onto face with fingers
2. Start brushing the product on face from the center outwards (i.e: center of forehead to the hairline; nose to the cheeks...etc)
3. Repeat until you like the result.
Sponge Equivalents (See Below)
(a) Disposable Wedges
2. Stippling Brush
A stippling brush typically has 2 layers of bristles, usually shorter black and longer white ones.
Densely packed shorter natural hair bristles, with longer more sparsely distributed synthetic bristles.
Pros:
- Good for liquids and cream products
- Gives an airbrushed look if applied correctly
- Builds up coverage easily
Cons:
- Too sparsely packed for powder products
- Technique is more time consuming
Method of Application:
1. Spot product onto your face OR lightly dip the SYNTHETIC bristles into product
2. DAB the brush lightly all over the face (hence the name, Stippling brush)
3. If there's any area which doesn't seem to blend well enough, lightly swirl the brush over it, but stippling should be the main mode of action
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(a) Disposable Wedges
3. Kabuki Brush
A Kabuki brush is generally an extremely short handled brush, densely packed with short to medium length natural bristles, forming a flat top or domed brush shape.
Pros:
- Ideal for powder products
- Easy to use
- Fairly quick application
- IF used with a good coverage powder fondation (e.g.: MAC Studio Fix Powder Foundation) can give a flawless matte finish
Cons:
- Can look cakey if too much foundation is applied (minimize by using a makeup setting spray!)
- Build up of product may emphasize dry spots and eczema
- Bit difficult to get used to the short handle
Method of Application:
1. Hold the stubby handle of thebrush with ALL 5 fingers
2. Swirl the brush into your powder compact
3. Tap off the excess (if your powder compact gives a lot of fallout, if not... skip)
4. Place the brush on face and swirl the brush over your face to buff the foundation onto your face
5. Repeat to cover all your face.
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(a) Disposable Wedges
(b) Foundation Pads
4. Powder Brush
A powder brush looks like the older brother of a blush brush, usually with a round ferule.
It can be medium to densely packed with medium to long natural bristles.
The powder brush in the image provided looks pretty small compared to the kabuki brush, but compare it to the blush brush!
Pros:
- Good for lightweight powders (e.g.: Loose powders)
Cons:
- Not for liquid or cream products
- Not ideal to apply powder foundation
Method of Application:
1. Tap out loose powder into the cap of the bottle
2. Dip the brush into the cap
3. Lightly press the product onto your face OR brush lightly onto the face (pressing is better though!)
4. Repeat as necessary.
5. Use the brush to brush off the excess powder off your face
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
(c) Velour Puffs
5. Angled Blush Brush
An angled blush brush is basically a blush brush where the bristles are arranged into a sloped shape
Pros:
- Good for powder blush, bronzer or contour
- Synthetic bristle brushes can be used with liquid or cream products
- Easy to 'carve' out the contours with the angled brush
Cons:
- None especially?
** The method of application depends on what you are going to use it for...
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
-Nil-
6. Blush Brush
An blush brush is a small brush which can have a flat or round ferule, usually not densely packed.
Pros:
- Can apply powder blush, bronzer or contour
- Synthetic bristle brushes can be used with liquid or cream products
Cons:
- Not as easy to use as an angled brush
** The method of application depends on what you are going to use it for...
Sponge Equivalents: (See Below)
-Nil-
(a) Disposable Wedges
Triangular latex sponges.
Pros:
- Most versatile tool, can be used for powder, liquid and cream products
- Soft texture makes it comfortable and easy to blend products
Cons:
- Absorb a lot of product
- Can get costly if you use many pieces, since it is disposable
Tips for application:
1. Moisten the sponge and squeeze out the excess water for ease of blending
Brushes it can replace: (See Above)
1. Foundation Brushes
2. Stippling Brush
3. Kabuki Brush
(b) Foundation Pads
Usually circular or rectangular latex sponges that come with compacts
Pros:
- Good for powder foundation
- Do not need to replace very often (every 3-4 months)
Cons:
- Absorb a lot of product
- Flat shape makes it more difficult to hold than disposable wedge
- Need to wash the sponge at least every 2-3 weeks
Brushes it can replace: (See Above)
3. Kabuki Brush
(c) Velour Puffs
Usually circular sponges, lined with cloth like material, which is fluffy!
Pros:
- Good for lightweight powders
Cons:
- Absorb a lot of product
- Should be washed every 2-3 weeks
- Need gentle care
Brushes it can replace: (See Above)
4. Powder Brush
Velour puffs maybe included in SOME blush products, but they do not really have the ability to help in application
DISCLAIMER:
Brush and sponge equivalents listed here are not perfect equivalents. Specific brushes have their benefits over the sponge equivalent, but you can replace them.
Saturday, November 3, 2012
#05 - Brushes vs Sponges Part 1 (Hygiene)
Hey guys!
A short one this week... A bit swamped with school assignments and getting ready for AFA!
This was originally intended to be a extension of note #01 - Cosmetic Hygiene for brushes, but... well, that would be plain boring...
So, I decided to do a comparison between the use of brushes and sponges.
Ok, so first thing we need to confirm is that there are many types of brushes and many types of sponges.
But the most important thing is to be able to keep the brushes and sponges in good condition and with good hygiene!!
Since I'm quite short on time, this issue will focus on hygiene, a more detailed comparison will be made later in the series!
MAINTAINING THE HYGIENE OF BRUSHES
Brushes go into your product and onto your skin, the bristles trap dust, makeup and bacteria.
Over time, these build up and you may be breeding some very infective microbes in your brushes without knowing!
So what do you need to know?
Spot Cleaning
There are 2 kinds of brush cleaners: Alcohol based and Soap based
A deep cleaning should be done every 1-2 weeks, depending on how much you use your brushes.
This is because of the very dusty air in Singapore.
Alcohol based Brush Cleaner
MAINTAINING HYGIENE OF SPONGES
Similar to brushes, sponges build up a lot of junk, even more so because sponges absorb more oil than brushes.
There are many kinds of sponges.
Disposable ones (e.g: triangular makeup wedges), ones included in powder compacts, eyeshadow applicators... etc
They all have different uses, and can be used for different amounts of time
Disposable Sponges
Well, as the name suggests, these sponges are designed to be used once and thrown away.
For that reason, hygiene is not a question for them.
Powder Compact Sponges
In this section I refer to the circular or rectangular latex sponges used in compacts (e.g.: pressed powders, powder foundation... etc) as well as the velour puffs, fluffy type sponge, used in mineral foundations, loose powders... etc
- Latex sponges are not designed to last very long, tears and rips may form and make it difficult to use.
- Change your compact sponge every 3-4 months.
Eyeshadow applicators
These are troublesome little buggers.
I really hate them...
Not only because they pick up too much color but also because when you try to wash them, they fall apart so easily!!
I would recommend tossing them out, and getting eyeshadow brushes... OTL
However... you can 'clean' them, well, sort of...
This method will not remove bacteria and junk, BUT it will help take off excess color so that you don't get a muddy color when applying a different color...
Tesun
A short one this week... A bit swamped with school assignments and getting ready for AFA!
This was originally intended to be a extension of note #01 - Cosmetic Hygiene for brushes, but... well, that would be plain boring...
So, I decided to do a comparison between the use of brushes and sponges.
Ok, so first thing we need to confirm is that there are many types of brushes and many types of sponges.
But the most important thing is to be able to keep the brushes and sponges in good condition and with good hygiene!!
Since I'm quite short on time, this issue will focus on hygiene, a more detailed comparison will be made later in the series!
MAINTAINING THE HYGIENE OF BRUSHES
Brushes go into your product and onto your skin, the bristles trap dust, makeup and bacteria.
Over time, these build up and you may be breeding some very infective microbes in your brushes without knowing!
So what do you need to know?
Spot Cleaning
- This involves placing a wet wipe (e.g.: baby wipes, or antiseptic wipes) on your palm and swishing your brush bristles against it.
- If your brush has a flat ferule(e.g.: flat shader brushes, foundation brushes) move your brush in an back and forth motion, perpendicular to the brush
- If your brush does NOT have a flat ferule, move your brush in circular motions.
- Repeat until no more color is removed from the brush
- ** This should be done before and after you reuse the brush.
There are 2 kinds of brush cleaners: Alcohol based and Soap based
A deep cleaning should be done every 1-2 weeks, depending on how much you use your brushes.
This is because of the very dusty air in Singapore.
Alcohol based Brush Cleaner
- Alcohol based brush cleaners can help dissolve hardened gel eyeliners among other things, BUT are very damaging to natural hair bristles.
- For alcohol based brush cleaners, dip the bristles into a dish (ceramic OR metal only) with the brush cleaner, swirl the brush inside a couple of times, then similar to spot cleaning, rub the bristles back and forth or in circular motions on a DRY towel or kitchen paper. Repeat till clean.
- Alcohol brush cleaner that I use on event days, so I can do makeup for many people with clean brushes, is bought from Cosmoprof Academy at POMO.
- Soap based brush cleaners are more commonly used, BUT take a longer time to dry.
- For soap based brush cleaners, dip the brush into a dish with the brush cleaner diluted with a little water, then rub the bristles against your palm to lather it up. Rinse off the soap and press dry with a towel. Leave the brush to AIR-DRY lying on it's side.
- I use the sponge cleaner from Daiso as the soap in my homemade soap based brush cleaner mixture.
- Alternatively, you can use dishwashing soap.
MAINTAINING HYGIENE OF SPONGES
Similar to brushes, sponges build up a lot of junk, even more so because sponges absorb more oil than brushes.
There are many kinds of sponges.
Disposable ones (e.g: triangular makeup wedges), ones included in powder compacts, eyeshadow applicators... etc
They all have different uses, and can be used for different amounts of time
Disposable Sponges
Well, as the name suggests, these sponges are designed to be used once and thrown away.
For that reason, hygiene is not a question for them.
Powder Compact Sponges
In this section I refer to the circular or rectangular latex sponges used in compacts (e.g.: pressed powders, powder foundation... etc) as well as the velour puffs, fluffy type sponge, used in mineral foundations, loose powders... etc
- Both types of sponges are cleaned in the same way, but the velour puffs are more delicate and should be handled more gently.
- Use a soap based cleaner. I use the sponge cleaner from Daiso or handwashing soap.
- Dampen the sponges, drip 3-4 drops of sponge cleaner or handwashing soap onto it.
- Massage and squeeze the sponge until it lathers.
- Rinse and repeat if necessary.
- Squeeze the excess water out and lay out on a towel to air dry.
- * This should be done at least every month.
- Latex sponges are not designed to last very long, tears and rips may form and make it difficult to use.
- Change your compact sponge every 3-4 months.
Eyeshadow applicators
These are troublesome little buggers.
I really hate them...
Not only because they pick up too much color but also because when you try to wash them, they fall apart so easily!!
I would recommend tossing them out, and getting eyeshadow brushes... OTL
However... you can 'clean' them, well, sort of...
This method will not remove bacteria and junk, BUT it will help take off excess color so that you don't get a muddy color when applying a different color...
- Take a wet wipe (e.g.: baby wipe, antiseptic wipe) lay it on your palm.
- LIGHTLY run the applicator over the wipe.
- Repeat until no more color comes off.
Tesun
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)