Welcome to...
A Slice of Magic
The name was inspired from the manga "Beauty Pop". Koshiba Kiri's catchphrase, "I'll help you guys add a little magic", reminded me that anyone can become beautiful, with a touch of magic~

Please email kouzukeran@hotmail.com for enquiries and requests.

For more information and some light humor, please read the FAQ

Please visit my PORTFOLIO to view my past works.

Kouzuke Ran Artistry now has an official Facebook Page!

Due to full time work commitments after joining the workforce.
However, any MESSAGES sent to our Facebook Page will be responded to if advice is required.

Monday, October 15, 2012

#03 - Concealers

The third piece!
Haha... I just noticed that I start writing for this series whenever I feel stressed... OTL

Ok, today's topic is concealers.
First, we will go through what to look for in a concealer.
Then, the various types of concealers based on formulation (e.g.: Powder, Liquid, Cream).
And finally, we will look at techniques to apply them and their pros and cons.

The ideal concealer for you, should:
  1. Be suitable for your skin type (e.g.: dry, combination, or oily skin)
  2. Have the SAME skin tone as your foundation, ideally... OR
  3. Be 1-2 shades lighter than your natural skin tone. (Note that most brands have very limited colors available and each skip at least 3-4 shades in between them)
  4. Should be easy to apply, especially in a rush
  5. Should be easy to keep hygienic (See #01 - Cosmetic Hygiene)

Types of Concealers:

1. Mineral and/or Powder concealers
Yes, there are powder concealers.
No, I have not personally tested any of them before... so basically, take what I say with about them with a pinch of salt.
Most of what I write here is based on what I've read and what I've heard from friends who have used them before.

- Good for oily skin (Being powder and mineral based, they tend to absorb more oils)
- Lightweight (Generally, powder based formulations are not as thick and heavy as cream or liquids)

- Messy to apply
- Not for dry skin
- Coverage tends to be from sheer to medium
- Can look cakey if trying to build up coverage
- Requires applicator brush for application (Often the brush is installed onto the bottle, making it difficult to wash the brush)

2. Liquid concealers (e.g.: ZA Concealer perfection)
The most commonly used form of concealers.

- Good for dry to combination skin. (Ironically, most cream concealers have too high wax content and are drying on the skin)
- Coverage is medium to full. Able to build up (For most formulations)
- Application can be done with fingers, no additional tools required
- Small bottle is convenient for travel
- Can mix colors easily (If bought wrong shade)

- Can be messy to dispense product.
- May 'slip' or 'slide' into creases of the face (Set all liquid and cream makeup with a powder to reduce this effect!)

3. Cream or Stick concealers (e.g.: Canmake Color Stick, Mehron Tattoo CoveRing)
Creams generally have higher wax content then liquid concealers.
This is to allow them to stay on the skin longer.

- Good for combination skin (Dry skin people can try it, but are better off with a liquid concealer)
- Wide range of coverage, from sheer to medium, but not quite yet full coverage.
- Application can be done with fingers, no additional tools required (Actually, you are better off using your fingers)
- Stick concealers are generally convenient for travel

- Not for oily skin
- Can become cakey when built up (Higher wax content makes it drying)
- Limited color shades available usually
- Tendency to crease in lines of the face
- Hard to keep hygienic (Usual method of application involves dipping of fingers into the product)

Application Techniques
Application technique used depends on the type of concealer you are using.

1. Using Fingers
Most common method used and actually the most versatile.

- Good for liquid and cream concealers
- Warmth from fingers blends in concealer better (esp for cream concealers)
- No additional tools required, good for on the go application

- Not for mineral or powder based concealers
- Hygiene issue
- Result highly dependent on how the concealer is applied (see below for advice)

How to apply:
- Dispense liquid concealer onto finger OR
- Rub the stick/cream concealer to warm up the waxy concealer and transfer onto finger
- Spot on areas requiring coverage
- Use finger to dab on and around the area lightly to blend out the concealer (DO NOT RUB)
- Set with powder product for longer wear.

2. Using Brush
There are many many concealer brushes out there, but really, you don't need a specific brush for concealer.
You can use a normal eyeshadow brush as well.
For best results, try using a synthetic bristle brush for liquid or cream concealers and a natural bristle brush for powder and mineral concealer.

- Good for all types of concealer
- Hygiene is better than fingers

- Hygiene issue when re-dipping brush for more concealer
- Tendency to apply too much product making it cakey or hard to blend.
- Not a ideal method for traveling

How to apply: (Liquid and cream concealers)
- Dispense liquid concealer or rub some cream concealer onto brush
- Spot on areas which require coverage
- Gently blend out the concealer using short outward strokes (from the center of the concealer outwards)
- Set with powder product for longer wear
** Achieve better results by using fingers to blend out!

How to apply: (Mineral and powder concealers)
- Dispense product into CAP of the bottle
- Swirl your brush into the powder, tap off excess
- Lightly brush onto areas requiring coverage, tap product onto area if you need more coverage
- Use the brush with light strokes around the area with concealer to blend it out.

3. Using Sponge
Sponge here can refer to the triangular sponges, beauty blender... etc

- Good for liquid and cream concealers
- More natural than brush application
- Hygiene issue is easily solved by using disposable sponges

- Not for powder and mineral concealers (Sponge tends to absorb a lot of the product)
- Not ideal for traveling (Sponges take up a lot of space)
- Sponge tends to absorb product, will use up product faster

How to apply:
- Before using the sponge, dampen it with water (squeeze out the excess) for a more natural finish
- Pick up product with the sponge and spot onto the face
- Lightly dab on the areas with concealer to blend it out (dabbing from center outwards is more appropriate)
- Reapply concealer to areas if necessary.
- Set with powder product for longer wear.
** For accuracy, best to spot product onto the face using fingers or brush, but achievable with sponge

Ok, I guess that's about it.


No comments:

Post a Comment